Varanasi: Confluence Of Religion, Education And Tourism

Several decades ago, for Nepali people Banaras was synonymous with education. It was the nearest and most popular education destination for every Nepali who wanted to pursue higher education, obviously in Sanskrit and Vedic Philosophy. It is now called Varanasi and has also earned fame as one of the major destinations of religious tourism in India.

The city got its name 'Varanasi' from the two rivers – Varuna and Assi - that created border to the old city which is located on the northern banks of the Ganges River. It is also known as 'Kashi' and is believed to be founded by Lord Shiva. 

The city had undergone a cultural revival during Mughal emperor Akbar's time. Though he was a Muslim ruler, he constructed two magnificent temples dedicated to gods Shiva and Bishnu. Maratha and Brahmin rulers who succeeded Akbar continued to develop the city. At present, Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi is elected from Varanasi. Modi has initiated a rapid development process to modernise the city with wider roads, underground sewerage system and cleaner Ganges. Locals said that even the narrow allays in the old city are being expanded. 

A priest at the Bishwa Nath Temple said that the narrow lane to the temple will be widened in the near future and the municipal authorities have already started compensation distribution to the houses that fall on the right side of the road.

From Varuna to Assi, there are about 84 Ghats spanning about 7 kilometres. Built by kings of various states of India in the middle ages, the Ghats are beautifully constructed and decorated. Unlike other holy rivers, the cremation of the dead is not allowed in all Ghats in Varanasi which has helped to keep the river bank and water both clean. 

Manikarnika and Harishchandra are the two Ghats where cremation is allowed. Manikarnika Ghat features an eternal fire which is never put off. At least a pyre is always burning here. More than 250 people are cremated here daily.

Things to do

In recent times, Aarati on the banks of Ganges has become the topmost attraction for the visitors along with the Bishwa Nath Temple. Tourist guide Dipak Kumar Sahani said that every tourist wanted to see these two things. Ganga Aarati is observed by more than 10,000 people every evening. There are dances and cultural exhibitions as well. Occasionally, a cultural team of Nepal also performs here. Though Aarati is performed at about seven locations, Dashashwamedh Ghat is the main attraction.

Banarasi Saree can be a perfect souvenir for the tourists to take back home. A handmade embroidered saree costs from INR 5,000 to 100,000. However, machine woven sarees come at cheaper rates. Don't forget to take a trip to a handloom and observe weavers preparing saree. Multiple cooperatives have been formed to preserve the small entrepreneurs. They run attractive showrooms in Varanasi and Sarnath where you can buy sarees and other silk materials at concessional rates. 

Mohammad Munir, an artisan, said that since Banarasi silk products have been their pride, they want to preserve it even though it is less attractive economically. Although Mughal rulers promoted the silk products as one of the major products of Varanasi, people of every caste are involved in this business, said Raj Dube, an owner of Handloom Company and member of a cooperative.

Also don't forget to taste Banarasi Paan and sweets. Banarasi Paan is glorified in many Bollywood cinemas such as 'Khaike Paan Banaras Wala …' from Amitabh Bachchhan starred blockbuster 'Don'. Sankatmochan Temple, New Bishwa Nath Temple, Durga Temple, Parshvanath Jain Temple – dedicated to Jain's 23^rd Thirthankara born in Varanasi, Banaras Hindu University, Bharat Mata Mandir and Tulsi Manas Mandir are other major sites to visit.

Bodh Gaya, where Gautam Buddha attained enlightenment, lies about 250 kms away from Varanasi. If you plan to visit the world famous sacred site, you need to spend a day and a night there. It takes about 5-6 hours to travel to Bodh Gaya. The Bothi Tree under which enlightenment dawned on Buddha is still preserved where hundreds of devotees and monks pray. Bodh Gaya also features other attractions such as Thai Temple, Mahabodhi Temple, Giant Buddha Statue, Bhutanese Monastery and Nippon Japanese Temple.

Bodh Gaya

Similarly, Sarnath is about 15 kms away from Varanaasi. The place where Buddha delivered his first sermon after attaining enlightenment is a must visit place where you can enjoy different temples, Ashoka piller, giant stupa, museum and other temples.

Travel

Varanasi can be reached by using bus, train and air service. If you want to travel via road, you have to reach Birgunj and then Raxaul or Bhairahawa and then Gorakhpur or any other nearest Indian railway station to catch a train. It would be better to reserve the train early to get better accommodation, as you might be travelling to hotter places, booking seat in the A/C compartment of a train would be better. Never travel in the general compartment since there are chances that you might be squeezed among the daily local commuters. Comfortable bus service is also available from bordering Indian cities and towns to Varanasi.  

Recently Buddha Air has launched direct air service from Kathmandu to Varanasi. The twice a week to and fro flight is designed in a way that you can have enough time to visit Varanasi, Bodh Gaya and Sarnath. The flights are scheduled on Monday and Thursday evening. 

Sarnath

You can fly to Varanasi on Monday evening and return on Thursday or go there on Thursday and come back on Monday. Buddha Air said that the direct flight services were started to connect the two ancient cities in Nepal and India and famous pilgrimage sites such as the Ganges, Bishwo Nath in Varanasi to Pashupati and Swayambhu in Kathmandu.

Though you can visit Varanasi and Bodh Gaya anytime a year, since the mercury goes as high as 46 degrees in summer, Octobar-December and March-April will be the best time to visit. Santosh Nepal, a Nepali student studying Masters' in Varanasi said that the heritage city witnesses the largest number of domestic and foreign tourists the month of November.

Lumbini

Foreign tourists who come to Varanasi and visit Bodh Gaya and Sarnath should include Lumbini, the birthplace of Gautam Buddha in Nepal, in their itinerary. Lumbini is 326 kilometres from Varanasi and takes 8 to 9 hours ride to reach there. 

Apart from Indian nationals, other foreigners should obtain a visa to enter Nepal but there is on-arrival visa facility for people of many countries around the world. You should check with the Nepali mission in your country to ensure the availability of the facility. If you are coming to Nepal via India for multi-day visit, you can fly directly to Kathmandu and visit Lumbini afterwards.

Nepal connection

There is a mini Nepal in Varanasi which includes students, scholars, monks, traders and priests. Of the seven young priests performing Ganga Aarati at the Dashaswamegh Ghat, three are Nepali. This tradition is in practice since the Aarati was started about three decades ago.

Local tourist guide Dipak Kumar Sahani said that the priests or Brahmins are called from Nepal for the ritual performance. Many religious sites and temples in India have Nepali Brahmin priests while famous religious sites in Nepal such as Pashupatinath have Indian priests. This cultural and religious exchange has contributed to deeper people-to-people relationship between the two countries.

A weaver 

Santosh Nepal, a youth from Taplejung district of Nepal, performs Aarati at the Dashaswamegh Ghat every evening. He is accompanied by Pawan Sharma and Ramesh Poudel. "I am here for the last 12 years. Currently I am pursuing my Acharya (Masters' Degree) studies. It is an amazing experience to be a part of the famous religious ritual. We earn prestige and money both," said Nepal. 

Most of the Nepali young priests at the religious sites and performing religious activities are the students of Banaras Hindu University, Sampurnananda University or other education institutions studying Sanskrit or eastern philosophy or Vedas.

Similarly, Nepali priests are appointed at the Nepal-made Pashupatinath Temple and many other temples and shrines. Raj Kumar Pandey, a student from Syangja district and doing Diploma in Astrology, was found at the counter of Nepal Tourism Board maintained at the Pashupatinath Temple. 

He said that there were many traders who sold Nepali and Indian goods in the local markets. The Pashupatinath Temple is built nearby the famous Lalita Ghat, also known as Nepali Ghat. King Rana Bahadur Shah had started the construction of Lalita Ghat and Pashupatinath Temple while he took exile in Varanasi from 1800 to 1804 but his son Girwan Yuddha Bikram Shah completed the structures. Rana Bahadur Shah had given himself the title of 'Swami Nirgunanda' during his exile in the holy city.

Published in The Rising Nepal daily's Friday Supplement on 24 August 2018.