In an attempt to scale the top of the world, double amputee Gurkha veteran Hari Budha Magar is in the Himalayas. He aims to climb Everest with the support of his prosthetic legs and set a world record for becoming the first man with a double amputee above the knee to reach the top of the world.
It's about testing and proving himself and sending motivation to the people across the world who are living with disability. "I have struggled more to lift myself up in a wheelchair from the ground than what I am doing now. Everybody knows that life is a struggle, but I have been fighting a different battle to prove myself," he said. His journey has been a voyage of courage, adventure, dedication and perseverance. There are thousands of people who have reached the last foothold at the bungee jumping platform and returned home without having a jump or a fall. And here is a double amputee inspiring the world with his daring exercise in the Himalayas, where even a small mistake can cost your life.
It took about five years for him to obtain approval from the authorities in Nepal to climb Everest. With this, the climax of his adventure has begun. Hari left for Solukhumbu earlier this month. He hopes that he can complete his journey atop Everest in two months. His team includes a 16-member crew with eight Sherpa climbers.
In May 2023, Hari will climb Everest, at 8849m, through the South Col route from Nepal. The route moves through the treacherous Khumbu Ice Fall to the Western Cwm before heading up the imposing wall of ice that is the Lhotse Face, reads a note in Hari's web. Similarly, his journey will go up the mountain via Yellow Band, Geneva Spur, South Col, which is Camp 4, from where the summit would be attempted.
He is the first double amputee to reach Everest Base Camp and the first double above-knee amputee to summit a mountain over 6,000 metres.
Showing his artificial legs and accessories, he expressed immense satisfaction over his success in arranging the equipment fundamental for his mobility in high mountains that even pose life-threatening challenges to able-bodied climbers. "This is not only for my satisfaction. I want to change the perception of the world towards people with disabilities," said Hari.
However, equipment has become another big challenge, as all of them have to be adapted to make him fit to move onto the mountain. From clothing to kits, everything has to be customised for him. His cram-punch prosthetic couldn't be found anywhere, and he asked his US friend to find one and send it for him. Need is the mother of invention. He gradually arranged the things that he needed. He has customised the prosthetic feed by pasting shoe soles so that he will have a better grip on the ground.
"I know, I am not getting any more luxuries up in the mountains, but I don't want to lose an additional limb," he seems determined as he demonstrates his artificial leg with heating system. The leg is easy to fit and take off. He used the same method to reach Everest Base Camp and he was the first one to do so!
Life and career
Hari was born in 1979 in Mirul Village, Rolpa district, in the mid-western hills. He has wanted to climb the snow-covered mountains since he was a young boy.
He joined the British Army at the age of 19. While fighting in Afghanistan in 2010, Hari stepped on an improvised explosive device and lost both of his legs above the knee in the blast.
Hari wanted to climb Everest in 2018, but he was one of the few people who had to abandon the efforts as the Government of Nepal had barred double-amputees, the visually impaired, and solo climbers from climbing the high mountain peaks since 2017. He was one of the few who challenged the government's step at the Supreme Court, which vacated the decision in 2018.
The Gurkha Welfare Trust appointed him as its ambassador in February 2022.
World records
Everest is not a novelty for him. He had successfully climbed Mont Blanc (4,810 metres) at the border of France and Italy in Europe, Kilimanjaro (5895 m) in Tanzania, and Chulu (6,059 m), and Mera Peak (6,476m). His success at Mera Peak in 2017 made him the first above-knee double amputee to summit a mountain higher than 6,000 metres. He also holds records for becoming the first person (above-knee double amputee) to reach Everest Base Camp and doing skydiving.
In 2017, I climbed Mera Peak as a part of the training to prepare myself for Everest, said Budha Magar. This mountain peak is considered by the mountaineers to be a safe and accessible mountain, partly because it does not have any avalanches. He reached the top of Mera Peak in 11 days. He enjoys creating histories, strengthening national pride and upholding the bravery and spirit of the Gorkhali people.
The former British soldier climbed Mera Peak for the second time in 2022 as part of his acclimatisation training to prepare him for Everest. He has been trained by Krish Thapa, Chief Mountain Instructor and world-renowned climber, for the summit attempt. According to him, he is three times slower than the able-bodied climbers and the challenge is that the longer the climb takes, the more chance something could go wrong.
Due to this very reason, Hari had allocated 18 days to reach Everest Base Camp and hired two competent guides. "I used to wake up earlier than the team members and start walking at 6:00 AM in the morning, while others would begin at 8:30. I complete the journey in nine days, in line with the able-bodied people," he said.
The majestic view of the Himalayas seen from Base Camp enchanted him and he spent a long time observing them. "I feel something spiritual there," he recalled.
Motivation
Hari's personal website carries the slogan 'no legs, no limits'. "You can have a goal and achieve it if you have motivation, dedication and perseverance. Then I jumped into the passion of mountaineering and now it has become my dream and goal," he said.
According to him, a stanza of a poem by Balkrishna Sama presented in one of the chapters of his Nepali textbook in high school had become his all-time favourite:
"If you are to live only in the house of the destitute,
Oh God, have mercy and give me more pain."
(Dukhika gharama matra tero basa hune bhaya,
He Ishwor daya rakhi malai ajhai dukha de.)
But why did he choose the mountains to demonstrate his skills when there were many other less-risky and fun-filled activities? "Because mountains are where we belong and are identified with. The world knows Nepal by its mountains, primarily Everest," he said, while promptly adding that challenges like those encountered in the high Himalayas not only offer thrills but also satisfaction and pride.
He had thought of summiting Everest since 2014–15. "This will certainly help me and many other people to dispel the despair," he said with full confidence. Hari didn't ask for a waiver of the royalties the government charged for climbing Everest but rather set out in search of commercial sponsors. Some global brands and companies have joined him as sponsors of his trip, while some Nepali companies have also shown interest in sponsoring him.
By accomplishing this challenge, Hari hopes to create history and become the world's first double above-knee amputee to conquer Everest. "He also hopes to raise awareness of disabilities and change the narrative surrounding them, show that having a disability does not have to be life-limiting, and inspire people to conquer their own dreams and to lead more fulfilling lives," reads a note on his personal website.
He also hopes to raise about 884,900 British pounds (Rs. 146 million) during and after the mountain climb. He plans to distribute the money among the organisations that supported him during his recovery period: Gurkha Welfare Trust, Pilgrim Bandits, Blesma, On Course Foundation and Team Forces.
Hari hopes that he will be able to support at least one person with a disability with the prosthetics. However, he was astonished that some people had questioned his decision to do the same in the past. "I understand the trauma, helplessness and frustration of being disabled and being alone. "Consequently, I want to support people who are in dire need of such support," he said. He also suggested that the government should come forward to develop disabled-friendly infrastructure and take care of their fundamental needs.
Final steps
Meanwhile, Hari began his journey from Everest Base Camp to the summit on Saturday, May 6, after waiting for two weeks there to find favourable weather. His success would make him the first ever double above-the-knee amputee to conquer the mountain, which is named "Sagarmatha" in Nepali, which means the one that has its head in the 'sky' or 'heaven'.
Climbing alongside his expedition leader Krish Thapa, the challenge is expected to take between five and seven days but could be longer, climbing from 5,364 metres at the EBC to the summit of 8,849 metres, a blog on Hari's personal website informed.
According to the blog, his first challenge was to make his way through the Khumbu Icefall at the head of the Khumbu Glacier on the way to camp 1, which he safely succeeded.
Hundreds of feet deep and more than 50 feet wide, the Khumbu Icefall is considered one of the greatest challenges on the way to the summit of the South Col, the pass between Everest and Lhotse, the fourth highest mountain in the world. The South Col is the way to the peak of Everest from the Nepal side, while the North Col lies in Tibet, between Everest and Changtse.
He writes in the blog, "Anything is possible with adaptation, and I hope that my climb changes perceptions people may have about the capability of people with disabilities and also inspires others to climb their own mountain, whatever that might be. Of course, I am nervous ahead of the climb, but I have an amazing team around me, and we have been practising together for a long time now."
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